Stuff to know
HISTORY
Pygmy Goats are also called Cameroon Dwarf Goats. They are known to have come from the former French Cameroon area. They were exported from Africa to zoos in Sweden and Germany where they were on display as exotic animals. From there they made their way to England, Canada and the United States.
BREED CHARACTERISTICS
Height- 16 to 22 inches at the withers
Lifespan - 10 to 15 years
Female pygmy’s are called does and males are called bucks. Young pygmy goats over the age of 12months but under 2 years of age are called Goatlings and Bucklings.
All body colours apart from all white are acceptable. They should have a full coat of straight, medium-long hair which varies in density with seasons and climates. On females, beards may be non-existent, sparse or trimmed. On adult males, abundant hair growth is desirable. The beard should be full, long and flowing. However, unless breeding. It is not a good idea to keep an un-castrated male. Castration is recommended at an early age if keeping as a pet. (ours are done within 7 days).
The pygmy goat is of the horned variety, although the horns can be removed, again at a very early age by a veterinarian under anaesthetic. We however prefer them horned as it adds to their character. Pygmy goats are extremely interesting animals. Each of my goats has its own personality. They give hours of fun, watching them play fight, jump and clown around. The pygmy is a good-natured and friendly animal. THE PYGMY DOES NOT LIKE TO LIVE ON ITS OWN. Our goats have lived with chickens and geese and get on well with our dogs. They are easily trained to walk on the lead.
HOUSING
Before we bought our goats, we researched this subject intensely. We have seen goats just left outside in fields with no shelter and tethered; Pygmy goats hate to get wet. Ours will not come outside if raining hard. We use 8ft by 6ft sheds that will adequately house 3 to 4 pygmy goats. Straw is a good heat source for them in the winter months and we built platforms for them to sleep on. THEY DO NOT LIKE DAMP FLOORS
FENCING
Yet again another subject we researched thoroughly. We use post and rail and chain link. We also placed a timber rail at approximately 3ft off the ground to enable the goats to stand on it and look around. Remember goats are good jumpers and as We have found out, excellent escape artists. Our fences are a minimum of 4 feet. high. THE BIGGER THE GOAT, THE BIGGER THEY CAN JUMP. Can you imagine them in your pride and joy (the poly tunnel?) We also use electric fencing in order to protect the chain-link as they do like to rub alongside it and it can become loose.
NATURAL FOODS
Contrary to popular belief, the Pygmy is not a lawn mower, although they like sweet new green grass, they prefer to feed higher up. They love the blackberry brambles and Willow tree leaves. We have found that goats will eat until they are full up. It is a learning process. A note of caution, any plant that is formed from a bulb is poisonous, as is the dreaded Rag Wort, this should be dug up and removed immediately. Apples and carrots are a great favourite of our goats. Bread is not good for them as it may contain too much salt.
FEEDING
Good quality calf feed and hay. We feed them calf muesli with a bit of carrot, cabbage and apple. For our nursing mothers, we feed them a high protein goat pellet. This helps them to maintain their health and condition especially if they are nursing more than one kid. On no account should goats be fed with sheep food. Goats need the mineral copper and sheep food does not contain this. Salt and copper licks are also a necessary.
IMPORTANT MEDICATIONS
As with any animal, it is important to protect them from disease. We use Heptapac P. yearly. A 2mil injection is given just under the skin in the neck. A small lump may appear where the injection was administered, but this is nothing to worry about and should disappear within a couple of months. We would suggest that your Vet shows you how to do it the first time. Our adults are injected just before being put to the Billy and we do the Billy at the same time. Our kids are injected at 10 to 12 weeks of age and should be administered before leaving your property if sold.
Also like sheep, dogs and cats, protection against flea, mites are essential. I use Coopers Spot on. Like spot on treatments for your dog or cat. It works a treat.
Worming is also necessary. Our Vet recommended Albex X and we have found no adverse problems using this, but would recommend that you consult your own Vet if you have any doubts. The only thing we would say is that do not over worm as this could be dangerous to your goat. We only do this a couple of times a year. KID GOATS MUST NOT BE WORMED UNTIL THEY ARE AT LEAST 3 MONTHS OF AGE.
BLOAT can cause death. If you notice that the goat is slightly bloated, firstly do not panic. Feel the swelling and if soft, then approximately a 2 to 3 mil oral dose of vegetable or linseed oil will loosen it off. If solid then a speedy visit to the vet is advised.
DIARRHOEA Kid goats quite often get diarrhoea within the first two weeks of birth. This is caused by the richness of their mother’s milk. Do not be tempted to give medication as normally this will clear up by itself. We normally just give a dose of glucose water to help with it. However, if it does persist then consult your vet. Also make sure that you keep the area clean always.
In the beginning, we mentioned mastitis and goat polio. We were very unlucky to lose our two Saanens. Bonnie developed mastitis right after the birth of her kid and no amount of medication or care from the vet could save her. She developed gangrene and had to be put to sleep. Dolly fell ill so quickly. She had kidded about a month before. Two beautiful twin girls and was doing well. Fine the night before. But next morning noticed that she was standing weird. Goat Polio is also known as Star Gazing Disease. Neck taught and looking towards the sky. Our Vet attended within the hour and gave mediation, but Dolly died within 6 hours. It is thought that she may have eaten something or was lacking a certain vitamin. So, no matter how much care you give, death happens. Although heart breaking that it is.
BASIC CARE
Again like most domestic pets their nails, or in this case hooves, must be trimmed regularly.
There is a light fleshy area on the sole of the hoof that needs to be trimmed approximately every 6 to 8 weeks. However, our goats normally have a concrete area standing and we have found that hard standing does help to keep the hoof from growing too quickly. Again, before doing this, then you should have a knowledgeable person show you how.
Taking on any animal whether large or small is a challenge. However, owning a couple of Cameroon Pygmy Goats, we have no doubt will give not only your children hours of fun and learning, but undoubtedly give us adults many a smile. Saanen goats also make great pets and are a gentler breed if handled right from the beginning.
A guide to birthing.
After a number of recent requests please see attached my guide gained from personal experience gained over the past 15 years, click here for pdf download
Pygmy Goats are also called Cameroon Dwarf Goats. They are known to have come from the former French Cameroon area. They were exported from Africa to zoos in Sweden and Germany where they were on display as exotic animals. From there they made their way to England, Canada and the United States.
BREED CHARACTERISTICS
Height- 16 to 22 inches at the withers
Lifespan - 10 to 15 years
Female pygmy’s are called does and males are called bucks. Young pygmy goats over the age of 12months but under 2 years of age are called Goatlings and Bucklings.
All body colours apart from all white are acceptable. They should have a full coat of straight, medium-long hair which varies in density with seasons and climates. On females, beards may be non-existent, sparse or trimmed. On adult males, abundant hair growth is desirable. The beard should be full, long and flowing. However, unless breeding. It is not a good idea to keep an un-castrated male. Castration is recommended at an early age if keeping as a pet. (ours are done within 7 days).
The pygmy goat is of the horned variety, although the horns can be removed, again at a very early age by a veterinarian under anaesthetic. We however prefer them horned as it adds to their character. Pygmy goats are extremely interesting animals. Each of my goats has its own personality. They give hours of fun, watching them play fight, jump and clown around. The pygmy is a good-natured and friendly animal. THE PYGMY DOES NOT LIKE TO LIVE ON ITS OWN. Our goats have lived with chickens and geese and get on well with our dogs. They are easily trained to walk on the lead.
HOUSING
Before we bought our goats, we researched this subject intensely. We have seen goats just left outside in fields with no shelter and tethered; Pygmy goats hate to get wet. Ours will not come outside if raining hard. We use 8ft by 6ft sheds that will adequately house 3 to 4 pygmy goats. Straw is a good heat source for them in the winter months and we built platforms for them to sleep on. THEY DO NOT LIKE DAMP FLOORS
FENCING
Yet again another subject we researched thoroughly. We use post and rail and chain link. We also placed a timber rail at approximately 3ft off the ground to enable the goats to stand on it and look around. Remember goats are good jumpers and as We have found out, excellent escape artists. Our fences are a minimum of 4 feet. high. THE BIGGER THE GOAT, THE BIGGER THEY CAN JUMP. Can you imagine them in your pride and joy (the poly tunnel?) We also use electric fencing in order to protect the chain-link as they do like to rub alongside it and it can become loose.
NATURAL FOODS
Contrary to popular belief, the Pygmy is not a lawn mower, although they like sweet new green grass, they prefer to feed higher up. They love the blackberry brambles and Willow tree leaves. We have found that goats will eat until they are full up. It is a learning process. A note of caution, any plant that is formed from a bulb is poisonous, as is the dreaded Rag Wort, this should be dug up and removed immediately. Apples and carrots are a great favourite of our goats. Bread is not good for them as it may contain too much salt.
FEEDING
Good quality calf feed and hay. We feed them calf muesli with a bit of carrot, cabbage and apple. For our nursing mothers, we feed them a high protein goat pellet. This helps them to maintain their health and condition especially if they are nursing more than one kid. On no account should goats be fed with sheep food. Goats need the mineral copper and sheep food does not contain this. Salt and copper licks are also a necessary.
IMPORTANT MEDICATIONS
As with any animal, it is important to protect them from disease. We use Heptapac P. yearly. A 2mil injection is given just under the skin in the neck. A small lump may appear where the injection was administered, but this is nothing to worry about and should disappear within a couple of months. We would suggest that your Vet shows you how to do it the first time. Our adults are injected just before being put to the Billy and we do the Billy at the same time. Our kids are injected at 10 to 12 weeks of age and should be administered before leaving your property if sold.
Also like sheep, dogs and cats, protection against flea, mites are essential. I use Coopers Spot on. Like spot on treatments for your dog or cat. It works a treat.
Worming is also necessary. Our Vet recommended Albex X and we have found no adverse problems using this, but would recommend that you consult your own Vet if you have any doubts. The only thing we would say is that do not over worm as this could be dangerous to your goat. We only do this a couple of times a year. KID GOATS MUST NOT BE WORMED UNTIL THEY ARE AT LEAST 3 MONTHS OF AGE.
BLOAT can cause death. If you notice that the goat is slightly bloated, firstly do not panic. Feel the swelling and if soft, then approximately a 2 to 3 mil oral dose of vegetable or linseed oil will loosen it off. If solid then a speedy visit to the vet is advised.
DIARRHOEA Kid goats quite often get diarrhoea within the first two weeks of birth. This is caused by the richness of their mother’s milk. Do not be tempted to give medication as normally this will clear up by itself. We normally just give a dose of glucose water to help with it. However, if it does persist then consult your vet. Also make sure that you keep the area clean always.
In the beginning, we mentioned mastitis and goat polio. We were very unlucky to lose our two Saanens. Bonnie developed mastitis right after the birth of her kid and no amount of medication or care from the vet could save her. She developed gangrene and had to be put to sleep. Dolly fell ill so quickly. She had kidded about a month before. Two beautiful twin girls and was doing well. Fine the night before. But next morning noticed that she was standing weird. Goat Polio is also known as Star Gazing Disease. Neck taught and looking towards the sky. Our Vet attended within the hour and gave mediation, but Dolly died within 6 hours. It is thought that she may have eaten something or was lacking a certain vitamin. So, no matter how much care you give, death happens. Although heart breaking that it is.
BASIC CARE
Again like most domestic pets their nails, or in this case hooves, must be trimmed regularly.
There is a light fleshy area on the sole of the hoof that needs to be trimmed approximately every 6 to 8 weeks. However, our goats normally have a concrete area standing and we have found that hard standing does help to keep the hoof from growing too quickly. Again, before doing this, then you should have a knowledgeable person show you how.
Taking on any animal whether large or small is a challenge. However, owning a couple of Cameroon Pygmy Goats, we have no doubt will give not only your children hours of fun and learning, but undoubtedly give us adults many a smile. Saanen goats also make great pets and are a gentler breed if handled right from the beginning.
A guide to birthing.
After a number of recent requests please see attached my guide gained from personal experience gained over the past 15 years, click here for pdf download